diff --git a/_config.yml b/_config.yml
index bc36bbf..4a405ff 100644
--- a/_config.yml
+++ b/_config.yml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@ analytics:
tracking_id: "G-WH7WNE01V5"
anonymize_ip: false # default
-paginate: 8
+paginate: 12
paginate_path: /page:num/
author:
diff --git a/_posts/2015-05-16-robo-cross-2015.md b/_posts/2015-05-16-robo-cross-2015.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3728c08
--- /dev/null
+++ b/_posts/2015-05-16-robo-cross-2015.md
@@ -0,0 +1,23 @@
+---
+title: Robo-Cross 2015
+date: 2015-05-16
+categories: school scioly
+excerpt: Just a brief overview of what Muscatel did for Robo-Cross in 2015. With the time that I had, I helped somewhat.
+header:
+ teaser: /assets/img/2015/robocross-2015-main.jpg
+
+gallery:
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2015/robocross-2015-12.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2015/robocross-2015-11.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2015/robocross-2015-10.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2015/robocross-2015-9.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2015/robocross-2015-8.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2015/robocross-2015-main.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2015/robocross-2015-1.jpg
+---
+
+Written 10-8-19
+
+As a freshman at Troy, it was the last year I could compete for Muscatel. That year a couple of events rotated in and out and I was finally left with a time slot to compete in Robo-Cross. I don’t really remember much about the rules other than having to move items around. The main idea I had that got implemented was using a box to scoop up items. Since I had so much schoolwork at Troy and driving took awhile, I didn’t get to do much of the actual building. Here’s some pictures of our robot:
+
+{% include gallery %}
diff --git a/_posts/2015-12-31-lightsaber-v1.md b/_posts/2015-12-31-lightsaber-v1.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4972112
--- /dev/null
+++ b/_posts/2015-12-31-lightsaber-v1.md
@@ -0,0 +1,22 @@
+---
+title: Lightsaber v1
+date: 2015-12-31
+categories: projects
+excerpt: With a reignited love of Star Wars, I got to work building my very own lightsaber in true Jedi fashion.
+header:
+ teaser: /assets/img/2015/lightsaber-v1.jpg
+---
+
+Written 10-7-19
+
+During winter break of sophomore year in high school, Star Wars: The Force Awakens came out. The excitement around the film really reignited my childhood love of Star Wars, which had been overshadowed by Harry Potter during elementary school. Don’t hate me for this, but as a kid, it was safe to say the prequels were my favorite, especially with all the lightsaber scenes. After a bit of browsing the web catching up on what happened to Star Wars in the past couple years, I came upon a community of people who built their own lightsabers. These lightsabers were a step above the plastic toys from Target. In my eyes, they were works of art.
+
+Of course, I had to have one. Being a maker, I couldn’t just buy one from an online seller. In true Jedi fashion, I had to learn the ins and outs of building one myself. First, I picked a hilt design. I didn’t really have that many tools at home, so there weren’t many options. Eventually I settled on using a chrome sink tube from Home Depot to emulate the Graflex look. For the electronics, I took the sound board out of a cheap lightsaber toy and paired it with an Arduino.
+
+Manufacturing the blade was easily the hardest part of the entire project. I wanted to replicate the extension and retraction effects from the movies and not use what felt like a cheap flashlight setup. Looking through other people’s designs, I eventually came across Makoto Tsai who was famous for his segmented LED blades. I found a couple of tutorials on how to make blades similar to his and got started. I started by drilling the LEDs to improve the beam angle and diffusion. Bending the leads and soldering them together was pretty straightforward. Since I broke a couple LEDs in the drilling process and didn’t want to buy more, the blade ended up being shorter and dimmer than expected. I then cut each segment, hooked it all up using solid core wire, and wrapped it in some foam. As a first try, the blade didn’t end up too bad.
+
+Somehow I didn’t take any pictures of this lightsaber by itself before it hit the scrap bin. Here’s what I do have.
+
+
+
+{% include video id="EBRMI2jJulM" provider="youtube" %}
diff --git a/_posts/2016-02-09-lightsaber-v1-5.md b/_posts/2016-02-09-lightsaber-v1-5.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2c309ee
--- /dev/null
+++ b/_posts/2016-02-09-lightsaber-v1-5.md
@@ -0,0 +1,20 @@
+---
+title: Lightsaber v1.5
+date: 2016-02-09
+categories: projects
+excerpt: Just for fun, I built another lightsaber as a test platform for different hilt designs and blade mounting ideas.
+header:
+ teaser: /assets/img/2016/lightsaber-v1.5-3.jpg
+
+gallery:
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/lightsaber-v1.5-1.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/lightsaber-v1.5-2.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/lightsaber-v1.5-3.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/lightsaber-v1.5-4.jpg
+---
+
+Written 10-6-19
+
+Just for fun, I built another lightsaber between building v1 and v2. It was more of a test platform to see what I could do with PVC tubing as a hilt material. Most intriguing was trying to make a curved hilt much like Count Dooku. I also wanted to try out different ways of mounting the blade. An unexpected finding of v1.5 was realizing how much voltage drop affected the LED string, which is something I fixed in v3. Here’s a couple pictures.
+
+{% include gallery %}
diff --git a/_posts/2016-03-20-lightsaber-v2.md b/_posts/2016-03-20-lightsaber-v2.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..cb20ee5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/_posts/2016-03-20-lightsaber-v2.md
@@ -0,0 +1,38 @@
+---
+title: Lightsaber v2
+date: 2016-03-20
+categories: projects
+excerpt: Excited with the completion of v1, I challenged myself to build another lightsaber, but this time using the crossguard style. Also, it had to be red.
+header:
+ teaser: /assets/img/2016/lightsaber-v2-three.jpg
+---
+
+Written 10-5-19
+
+Immediately after finishing v1, I decided to build another lightsaber. Of course, I had to build a crossguard lightsaber just like Kylo Ren’s.
+
+## Hilt
+
+Just like v1, I stuck to using a chrome sink tube for the hilt. Mechanically speaking, the hardest part would be attaching the two side blades to form the crossguard. I didn’t really have the tools nor the knowledge to make a very secure connection. After some trial and error screwing around with PVC on a band saw and drilling some holes, I had a surprisingly sturdy connection. I’ll admit I also used a good amount of hot glue.
+
+
+
+Next up was figuring out the blades. v1 used a 3/4″ ID, 1″ OD polycarbonate tube which is really heavy. While it provided durability, I reasoned that I wasn’t designing my lightsabers to duel with, so a 7/8″ ID, 1″ OD tube would work just as well while also cutting down significantly on weight. Mounting the blades was also a challenge because I didn’t really have the tools to make a precise 1″ hole. I ended up using a bunch of masking tape and screws to hold the blades securely.
+
+## Electronics
+
+Instead of taking apart a toy lightsaber to use its sound board, I decided to design my own based off the Atmega328 so I could use Arduino. The hardest part was figuring out how to do sound. To maintain a good user experience, I would need to switch between different sound files very quickly. Since I was still pretty new to all this, I started out by buying various different Arduino-compatible MP3 modules. None of them could switch between sound files without a very noticeable gap. Looking through other solutions, I eventually came upon TMRh20’s incredible [TMRpcm](https://github.com/TMRh20/TMRpcm) library. After a bit of wiring, I was up and running. Switching between sound files still had a gap if I remember correctly. However, what’s really cool is that the library allows playing two sound files simultaneously, so that gap was easily eliminated.
+
+With the sound figured out, I moved onto the blade. I wanted to make a Makoto Tsai style segmented LED blade just like v1. The main issues with v1 were that the wires were clearly visible, the diffusion was poor, and it was short. To fix all these things, I started off by using more LEDs. After soldering about 100 LEDs into a single string, I cut the negative side at multiple points to separate it into six segments. I also made two shorter strings for the side blades. I then used magnet wire to connect all the segments to one area at the bottom. This ended up being a poor choice when some segments shorted temporarily later on. Once the string was done, I wrapped it all in flat foam packaging and held it together with packaging tape.
+
+The circuit board housing all the electronics was really nothing special. I remember making a PCB for it but used Sharpie as an etch resist because the toner transfer method just didn’t work. Everything was stuffed into the hilt.
+
+
+
+It took a bit of effort, but here’s the finished lightsaber v2. Somehow, I literally didn’t take any pictures of it by itself.
+
+
+
+{% include video id="E7cj5idGys4" provider="youtube" %}
+
+{% include video id="v3c4CSyGi8E" provider="youtube" %}
diff --git a/_posts/2016-05-21-robot-arm-2016.md b/_posts/2016-05-21-robot-arm-2016.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b61abc4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/_posts/2016-05-21-robot-arm-2016.md
@@ -0,0 +1,63 @@
+---
+title: Robot Arm 2016
+date: 2016-05-21
+categories: projects school scioly
+excerpt: During my first year in the Troy SciOly team, I had a really fun experience building and competing with my robot arm. It was the perfect event for me.
+header:
+ teaser: /assets/img/2016/robot-arm-2016-nats.jpg
+
+gallery:
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/robot-arm-2016-1.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/robot-arm-2016-2.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/robot-arm-2016-3.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/robot-arm-2016-4.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/robot-arm-2016-5.jpg
+---
+
+Written 10-7-19
+
+Coming into the SciOly 2016 season, I was pleasantly surprised that Robot Arm had come in from rotation. Along with Electric Vehicle, it provided the perfect opportunity to test out my engineering skills and get into the Troy SciOly team. The task was relatively straightforward. There were ping-pong balls, pencils, and Lego bricks that had to be picked up and moved into certain egg cartons. There were also dice that had to be flipped onto an even side facing up. With the rules analyzed and basic strategy planned out, I got to work.
+
+## Design
+
+Since I didn’t have much experience in building robot arms, I decided to buy a bunch of Vex parts and go from there. As for the design of the arm, there really isn’t anything special about it. Most of it was based off of what I did in Robo-Cross except with different gear ratios. All the limbs were just extended to reach all corners of the work area. The base I used to mount the arm on was made of some MDF with test tube stoppers glued at the bottom for friction.
+
+### Dice
+
+The interesting part of the design was my strategy for doing the dice. Initially, I tried using the arm to push down on one side of the dice to flip it to an even side up. Later on I realized that just throwing the dice until an even side showed up worked better. However, while getting an even side up maximized points, getting the six side facing up was the tiebreaker. Since the task was so simple, it became necessary to figure out how to consistently get all the dice six side facing up.
+
+Later on in the school year, I noted that all of the dice were by default ones side facing up. On any standard dice, this meant that the six side was facing down. Thus, to get all the dice six side facing up I just needed to flip them all. Keeping in mind the limitations of what my arm could manipulate, I came up with the idea of using a clear sheet of plastic with tape laid over it sticky side out. At first I tried placing the sheet over all the dice, but that had consistency issues. The strategy that worked just about every time was placing the sheet down, placing the dice on top of it, and then flipping the whole thing over to get all sixes.
+
+
+
+## Electrical
+
+One of the things I really liked about Troy SciOly was just how much autonomy I had. That made sense considering all the engineering events were self-funded and we didn’t have a workshop. At Muscatel, one of the things I never got to do was implement a slave arm controller. Compared to most other alternatives, it’s easily the simplest and most intuitive controller design. I started out by mounting some potentiometers on each of the joints. Some of the joints, like the turret, took some ingenuity to mount securely. Next, I built a controller that was proportionally the same as the main arm and attached some potentiometers to that.
+
+Since I needed to read from about 8 different potentiometers, I decided to use an Arduino Mega because the Arduino Uno only has 6 analog inputs. I attached some connectors to perfboard to make a shield and plugged everything into it. The code was really simple since I only implemented proportional control (I didn’t know about PID yet). Wire management was also pretty straightforward and clean. Later on, I even made my own PCB for the shield by drawing it on using Sharpie and etching.
+
+One problem that showed up during the year was that the claw motor would randomly stop working. This usually happened if I gripped an item too hard. After some research, I learned that Vex motors have a PTC fuse inside that cut power if current draw was too high or it got too hot. While a nice safety feature, I couldn’t have a motor that can randomly shut off during competition. I removed the PTC from every Vex motor I had. I then added a power resistor inline with the claw motor for safety. Problem solved.
+
+## Competition
+
+### Tryouts
+
+Before even considering competing at Nationals, I had to first compete at Troy SciOly team tryouts. Right after I finished the arm, I pretty much practiced whenever I could. After about 10 tries, I was able to get a max score. Then I just kept working to be faster and more consistent.
+
+
+
+Eventually tryouts came along. With regards to Troy SciOly, I was just that kid who went to Muscatel. I didn’t have a reputation yet. I stood there at tryouts looking at all the other robot arms people built. It was safe to say I was a bit intimidated. I still remember everyone asking me, “Are you going to beat Jared?” He was more or less the engineer guy at SciOly at the time. Not wanting to be even more nervous after watching everyone, I went first. My heart was beating out of my chest during that entire 3 minute run. At the end of it, I had a max score. While everyone else went, I was still nervous because I didn’t consider what I did to be that impressive. After everyone went, I realized I had won. I was in the team.
+
+### Nationals
+
+Throughout the year, my robot arm performed admirably. I even got 1st at the State competition. However, due to how well the arm performed and how much work my Electric Vehicle needed, I made virtually no functional changes to the arm since October. I did keep on practicing and practicing until I consistently got max scores with the dice tiebreaker in about 2min 15s. At the national competition, I got yet another perfect run. However, like I said before the task was very simple so I ended up only getting 5th. Considering my arm only cost $400 and I built it back in October, I was pretty satisfied.
+
+
+
+Here’s a couple pictures of the robot arm. Since we had to document everything, I actually have pictures of it.
+
+{% include gallery %}
+
+I don’t have a video of my run at Nationals, but I do have one from States. I messed up a bit.
+
+{% include video id="NaZBWILZAOw" provider="youtube" %}
diff --git a/_posts/2016-05-22-electric-vehicle-2016.md b/_posts/2016-05-22-electric-vehicle-2016.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2c8f2de
--- /dev/null
+++ b/_posts/2016-05-22-electric-vehicle-2016.md
@@ -0,0 +1,117 @@
+---
+title: Electric Vehicle 2016
+date: 2016-05-22
+categories: projects school scioly
+excerpt: For the SciOly 2016 season, I built an Electric Vehicle and optimized multiple factors to maximize speed while maintaining accuracy.
+header:
+ teaser: /assets/img/2016/electric-vehicle-2016-v3.jpg
+
+gallery:
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/electric-vehicle-2016-v3-dust.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/electric-vehicle-2016-v3-dustmask.jpg
+---
+
+Written 10-8-19
+
+Coming in from rotation during the SciOly 2016 season was Electric Vehicle. The task sounded simple enough. Have an electric powered vehicle travel as fast as possible and stop at a certain distance. With relatively little experience around my belt, this project proved a daunting but very rewarding experience.
+
+## v1
+
+Being the clueless sophomore I was, I started out completely focused on accuracy. I really didn’t know anything about proper mechanical design or what factors to consider. The most precise motor is generally a stepper motor, so I started with that. I threw 4 of them onto an MDF baseplate along with an Arduino Mega and some stepper drivers. Here’s the result:
+
+
+
+I remember bringing v1 to Troy to do some testing. It was decently accurate, but far from enough to account for its slowness. Mr. Wahl even commented on how slow it was. It was pretty clear that I needed something much faster.
+
+## v2
+
+With not too much time left before tryouts, I immediately got to work on v2. I completely scrapped the stepper motor idea. After much research on the fastest hobbyist electric cars, I settled on working off of a 1:10 RC car. It took a bit of looking around but I found one for about $150 from a local hobby shop. Just driving it around I could feel how many orders of magnitude faster it was compared to stepper motors.
+
+Next up was restricting the car to drive straight and throw on some kind of breaking system. Since I didn’t want to modify the car too much, I cut up a piece of acrylic and screwed it on in place of the steering. I then attached some wheels and a wing nut onto a 5/16″ threaded rod. Steering was pretty hard to get straight with the standard rear wheel drive, so I flipped it around to use front wheel drive.
+
+The electronics were really straightforward. I just used an Arduino Uno to turn the motor on and off. It didn’t have to handle any braking since I was using a purely mechanical wing nut brake. I just added a sensor near the end of the wing nut’s travel to tell the Arduino to turn off the motor. For aiming, I added a laser pointer.
+
+I don’t really have any photos, but here’s some videos:
+
+{% include video id="ITR-IiqNe1s" provider="youtube" %}
+
+{% include video id="debiO5u6iG4" provider="youtube" %}
+
+I used v2 at tryouts. One thing I didn’t account for was that the floors in the science building were notoriously dirty. v2 ended up being fast, but not accurate. Still, it was the best of the bunch and got me on the team.
+
+## v3
+
+During winter break, I started working on a new vehicle. There were multiple different areas on wanted to focus that was all aimed at making the fastest, most consistent, and easy to use vehicle possible.
+
+### Base
+
+First off, I needed a platform on which I could more easily mount things. Since I eventually wanted to reassemble the RC car, I didn’t want to drill any holes in its base. I saw a lot of people online build their RC cars on top of carbon fiber plates, so I decided to do the same. Not having time to wait for a fine tooth bandsaw blade, I cut up the carbon fiber plate by hand using a Dremel. The resulting dust made quite the mess.
+
+{% include gallery %}
+
+I highly recommend not doing what I did. Just use a bandsaw with a vacuum or like a water jet or maybe even a CNC mill. Definitely do not use a Dremel.
+
+### Steering
+
+From a mechanical point of view, the entire steering assembly, from the screws to the axle to the wheel mounts needed a redesign. I started by cutting the carbon fiber to allow a wide range of adjustments to the steering. A couple of screws and large washers held everything down. I replaced the pulley bearings from v2 with actual high quality skateboard bearings. I made some mounts out of maple wood.
+
+Next up was the axle. I stuck with using a 5/16″ threaded rod because that fit the 8mm bore of a standard skateboard bearing perfectly. The issue was attaching wheels to it. If I remember correctly, they use a 12mm hex. At the time there were no 5/16″ rod to 12mm hex converters, so I made my own by drilling out a 3mm rod to 12mm hex converter. Out of many tries, I only had maybe one or two that ended up being perfectly concentric. Eventually, I took my parts to Mr. Stedman, who helped out Troy from time to time, because he had a lathe. He helped ensure my wheels were perfectly concentric with the axle. This proved beneficial in improving the consistency of the vehicle.
+
+### Aiming
+
+For the most part, the aiming system was completely carried over from v2. I’ll just go into a little more detail about its construction. I drilled a couple holes into a PVC pipe and put screws through it. These screws held in place a Class II laser pointer, which took quite awhile to find back in the day. Then I attached that assembly onto the top of the vehicle using liberal amounts of hot glue.
+
+I also built a little target board that my partner would place at the target point to aid in aiming. Calibration involved first making sure the car drove pretty straight. I did this by checking to see if the deviation from the center line was roughly linear over multiple distances. Once the car drove straight, I adjusted the laser (using the screws) to the point where, over multiple distances, aiming at the middle of the target would make the car go straight along the center line.
+
+### Braking
+
+One of the issues I had with v2 was that the brake was very one sided. Braking from relatively high speeds had a tendency to cause the car to jerk and turn. This is because the wing nut’s motion is forcibly stopped at one side of the axle and not the middle. Another issue was that I had to set the number of turns before braking by hand, which introduced a potential source of human error.
+
+To fix these issues, I decided to go with an electronically triggered brake coupled with an encoder to measure rotations. The encoder was very straightforward. I wanted to use an optointerrupter I salvaged from a printer, so I made my own encoder wheel using some transparency sheets and acrylic. Completely unrelated fun fact – the transparency sheets came from my experiments in making custom MTG cards.
+
+The electronic brake was a bit of a challenge. My idea was to attach a wing nut to the axle and use a servo which would move a piece of carbon fiber into the path of the wing nut when I needed to brake. Seeing that the servo reacted too slow to be a good brake, I came up with the idea of using a simple motor instead. When I needed to brake, the motor would more or less flick the brake piece into place. The wing nut’s rotation actually helped move this piece into place, stopping all motion.
+
+Software wise, the entire braking took place in two steps. When the vehicle got close to its target distance, the Arduino cut power to the motor. The high speed of the vehicle gave it enough momentum to carry itself to the target line. Once the target line was hit, the electrically triggered mechanical brake would trigger and stop the vehicle completely.
+
+### Speed
+
+The biggest part of the score for Electric Vehicle was easily the speed. We had to travel from rest to a certain distance as quickly as possible, so it would be more fitting to say acceleration was the most important part. I spent most of my time optimizing different factors to maximize it. Here’s most of those factors.
+
+- Rear-wheel drive – I don’t think this made a huge difference, but changing to rear wheel drive also improved brake performance.
+- Weight Distribution – Weight surprisingly didn’t make much of a difference but shifting the weight distribution to over the brakes and motors helped somewhat.
+- Gear Ratio – A large gear ratio increases torque and thus acceleration significantly. There is an upper limit though because eventually top speed is decreased too much.
+- Motor – A low KV motor helps here because it has higher torque. I also used a brushless one because of durability, controllability, and efficiency.
+- Battery – I ended up using the lightest NiMH battery pack that still had enough current capacity for the motor.
+- Wheel Diameter – The smallest wheel that would fit sacrifices top speed for much better acceleration.
+- Tire Material – Rubber was my initial choice, but eventually I found out that foam tires worked even better.
+- Tire Cleaning – Even on a perfectly clean gym floor, tires still pick up dirt over time which lowers friction. After every use I’d wash the wheels in some diluted Simple Green.
+- Tire Treatment – To increase the tires’ friction even more, I applied some WD-40 before use to soften them up. Waiting a couple hours after application is necessary to let everything soak in.
+ - Technically applying WD-40 pushed the limits of the rules, which didn’t allow putting anything on the tires that would leave residue on the floor. After about 20 runs on a clean hardwood gym floor, I did notice a black streak. However, this didn’t really matter since at competition we only had 2 runs.
+- Floor Cleaning – Since we weren’t allowed to use wet cleaners, I used a Swiffer with a Dry Pad to clean the floor before runs.
+- Floor Type – I didn’t have any control over this, but the quality of the floor at competition was the single greatest factor that affected both speed and accuracy.
+
+### Electronics
+
+With most of the rest of the vehicle done, I started on the electronics. For its ease of use, I did everything in Arduino. I made a shield with some buttons on it and connectors for the other parts of the vehicle. To display the distance, I soldered together a separate board which had seven-segment displays and shift registers. There really isn’t much else to say about the electronics. I just made sure to focus on ease of use.
+
+### Competition
+
+v3 proved an excellent design. It performed really well up until the state competition at CalTech. They hosted the event on this really dirty floor so my accuracy was completely off. Much like the science building at Troy, no amount of sweeping could make that floor clean. Whereas I got 1st in Robot Arm and Forensics, I got 11th in Electric Vehicle. That poor performance served as a very strong motivator for me to invest a lot more time and effort into improving my vehicle for Nationals.
+
+Luckily, at Nationals they used a pretty clean floor. The morning of competition, I applied just a bit too much WD-40 on the tires, so I was worried. Fortunately, at competition I took out the tires and it turned out that I had applied the perfect amount of WD-40. The tires had more grip than I had ever seen before. My run went about as well as I could’ve expected. The time was 1.3s. I was about 10cm off. At the awards ceremony, my heart was really racing. I was very surprised to have gotten 3rd place. I still remember Mr. Wahl high-fiving me as I walked back with my medal. My hard work had paid off.
+
+Later on I realized that my 1.3s time, which was measured from 0.5m to 8m, approached the theoretical maximum, assuming a maximum coefficient of friction of 1, of about 1.0s. I was pretty proud of that. Somehow, I actually got a hold of the raw score sheet and found out that my vehicle was the fastest, except for one outlier that was way off, but I was beaten out in accuracy. I was also pretty proud of that since my main focus was speed.
+
+Like v2, I also don’t have any pictures of v3. I do have some videos though.
+
+{% include video id="vg660eZj7Og" provider="youtube" %}
+
+Brake Testing. I fixed the jumpiness later on.
+
+{% include video id="k00rr5biZ6U" provider="youtube" %}
+
+Regionals at UCI, home to the cleanest floors I’ve ever seen.
+
+{% include video id="DDrTEgOsoa4" provider="youtube" %}
+
+My Nationals run, although a bit cut off.
diff --git a/_posts/2016-06-09-coil-gun-v3.md b/_posts/2016-06-09-coil-gun-v3.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b662830
--- /dev/null
+++ b/_posts/2016-06-09-coil-gun-v3.md
@@ -0,0 +1,34 @@
+---
+title: Coil Gun v3
+date: 2016-06-09
+categories: projects
+excerpt: With more experience around my belt, I decided to try my hand at making another coil gun, but this time smaller and without the long charge times.
+header:
+ teaser: /assets/img/2016/coilgun-v3.jpg
+---
+
+Written 10-5-19
+
+During my free time after what ended up being useless Elite SAT prep classes, I decided to try my hand at making another coil gun. It’s always so interesting looking back at my younger self and realizing how much I’ve learned. This was definitely was one of those times. Back in the day of v1 and v2 I had no clue how to switch high power electronics. I didn’t really know what I was doing during this project too, but I did now have the experience and confidence to figure it out. The main changes I wanted to implement with v3 was to be much smaller and not have to wait like 3 minutes to charge every time.
+
+## Electronics
+
+First up was figuring out the electronics. I had already taken apart v2 earlier that summer, so I reused the coils from it. Limited by the short piece of acrylic tube I salvaged, I could only slide 4 coils on. Between these coils I placed IR emitter detector pairs. After some experimenting, I realized that changing the value of the pull-up resistor on the detector greatly changed its sensitivity. This allowed me to not have to use Sharpie to cover up parts of the sensor like in v2.
+
+With the coil and sensor assembly done, I got to work on the control electronics. I started with figuring out how to use MOSFETs to control the coils. A couple months back I had bought a couple from [All Electronics](https://www.allelectronics.com/) but didn’t realize they had pretty high gate threshold voltages. As a workaround, I came up with using a pull-up resistor at the gate of a MOSFET and using the Arduino to control a BJT that turned off the gate. Since an Arduino has a boot-up time and the MOSFETs would now be on by default, I used a relay board to cut power to the coils until the Arduino was ready.
+
+## Final Assembly
+
+After a bit of coding and screwing things together, I finished assembling v3. For safety, I made sure to implement a max on time for the coils. Here’s the one picture I took of it.
+
+
+
+Here’s a video of me testing how fast it could shoot. I just let the bullet fall back down to the first stage so the coil gun would send it flying back up again.
+
+{% include video id="1qIJntZNnyo" provider="youtube" %}
+
+I wanted to implement a magazine system, but ended up not doing it because v3 was still more or less a test of what I could do. I also didn’t know how to do it.
+
+## Issues
+
+There were many issues with v3 that caused it to fail prematurely with a good amount of magic smoke. First and foremost, I didn’t put a flyback diode on the coils, so I broke multiple MOSFETs after some time. Next, the BJT and relay workaround was just a poor design choice. On top of that, the voltage regulator on the Arduino can’t power a relay, so it let out some smoke after awhile. Overall, I ended up throwing v3 in the scrap bin, but it proved an invaluable learning experience.
diff --git a/_posts/2016-08-01-lightsaber-v3.md b/_posts/2016-08-01-lightsaber-v3.md
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+---
+title: Lightsaber v3
+date: 2016-08-01
+categories: projects
+excerpt: The perfect addition to any Star War fan's lightsaber collection. Also one of my favorite projects and it has stayed working for far longer than I expected.
+header:
+ teaser: /assets/img/2016/lightsaber-v3-3.jpg
+
+gallery:
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/lightsaber-v3-2.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/lightsaber-v3-3.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/lightsaber-v3-1.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/lightsaber-v3-4.jpg
+---
+
+Written 9-29-19
+
+With a lot of time on my hands during the summer, I decided to build yet another lightsaber. v1 and v2 were great, but they were far cries from the professionally made ones. I wanted one that had a removable blade, kill switch, crystal chamber, multiple sound fonts, accelerometer, etc. What I ended up with did all that and earned its place as one of the coolest things I’ve ever made.
+
+## Electronics
+
+The most important thing to consider was the electronics. The electronics in v1 and v2 were definitely unnecessarily large for what they did. I couldn’t consistently make PCBs or work with SMD components yet, so I looked for a board that could do most of everything I needed. After some searching, I settled on using an [Adafruit Feather 32u4 Adalogger](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2795). It was Arduino compatible, worked off a lithium battery, and had a MicroSD slot. The rest of the electronics were just miscellaneous things like adding an audio amplifier, low pass filter, BJTs to control the blade, switches, accelerometer board, etc. It was pretty straightforward.
+
+One of the sacrifices I made with v3 was in the blade. v1 and v2 both had segmented LED blades which were cool but hard to make removable. I decided to just string all the LEDs together into one long piece. Straw hat LEDs proved a very good choice for increasing density and brightness. Learning my lesson from v1.5, I sorted the LEDs by forward voltage at 20mA to ensure even lighting all the way down the blade. My diffusion could use some work, but it’s definitely brighter than anything I’ve seen so far.
+
+## Chassis
+
+For the chassis, I once again stuck to a chrome sink tube from Home Depot. I really wanted to buy a lathe to make a custom chassis, but they were way too expensive and large. Funnily enough, I didn’t intend on making the hilt as short as I did. I was experimenting with trying to make a katana style hilt but failed. The only part of the sink tube that was still circular was what was left to make v3.
+
+While I couldn’t get a lathe, I did convince my parents to buy me a 3D printer, which has time and time again proven to be the best investment I’ve ever made. Building a lightsaber was an excellent first project to get started in CAD and printing. The first thing I worked on was the blade socket. After a couple iterations, I was able to get the tolerances just right to fit the blade snugly but still be removable.
+
+Next up was the crystal chamber. Since I had to consider ergonomics and size restraints, I ended up placing it at the bottom of the hilt. I know it’s technically wrong, but I had no other choice. Using some 3D printed parts, I made a basic crystal chamber using a quartz crystal and some brass tubes. The most stressful part was cutting out windows in the tube since I don’t have the most precise hands. It all worked out and I was left with a very nice crystal chamber.
+
+## Code
+
+By far the most interesting part of the project was the code. I had never done anything particularly complicated before then, so it was a fun challenge. I put a lot of work into making a simple user interface using two buttons. The code is a bit messy, but I did end up implementing most of the features standard in more professionally made ones.
+
+Here’s the [code](https://gist.github.com/dragonlock2/7ee6c91947dae831a22680cf416bf97d).
+
+## Final Assembly
+
+With the electronics and code done, it was time to stuff everything into the chassis. And by stuff I actually mean it since it was a pretty tight fit. I didn’t really like that the lightsaber wasn’t easily repairable, but I fixed that in v4. I didn’t get any pics during the assembly, but here’s some of the final product.
+
+{% include gallery %}
+
+Here’s an old video of me wielding it. Wow I was young back then.
+
+{% include video id="IzMGCf8xyNc" provider="youtube" %}
+
+I swear it’s more blue in real life.
diff --git a/_posts/2016-11-16-tower.md b/_posts/2016-11-16-tower.md
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+---
+title: Tower
+date: 2016-11-16
+categories: school
+excerpt: For our Physics 2 project, we had to build a wooden tower based off the year's SciOly rules. For a first try, I didn't do too bad.
+header:
+ teaser: /assets/img/2016/tower-complete.jpg
+
+gallery:
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/tower-one-brace.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/tower-two-brace.jpg
+
+gallery2:
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/tower-two-side.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/tower-two-side-crosses.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/tower-sanded.jpg
+
+gallery3:
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/tower-complete.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/tower-level.jpg
+ - image_path: /assets/img/2016/tower-height.jpg
+---
+
+Written 9-10-19
+
+For our Physics 2 project, we each had to build a wooden tower based off the year’s SciOly rules. I built a couple of boomilevers in Muscatel (but wasn’t very good) but I never built a tower. Still, all the little tips and tricks I learned about in Muscatel would prove useful here.
+
+## Design
+
+Since this was my first tower, I based my design off of other towers. I pretty much just drew a couple lines on paper so that the bottom was wide enough to stretch across the square in the test apparatus and the top would fit the loading block. For the cross bracing I just drew lines at an equal spacing so that the X’s formed were roughly smooshed squares.
+
+
+
+If I remember correctly, it had to be 50cm tall and stretch across a 20cm square hole. Rotating the tower 45° enabled making the bottom slimmer, so I could make it about 15cm wide instead of 20cm.
+
+## Build
+
+With a design finished, I proceeded to building the tower. The first step was picking the wood. I picked wood based on my intended mass of around 8g to balance maximum possible efficiency and availability of high quality balsa sticks. After a bit of searching through the piles of balsa sticks we were provided, I identified a couple 1.5g 1/8″x1/8″x36″ sticks for use as the main supporting structure and a couple of 0.5g 1/16″x1/6″x36″ sticks for the cross bracing. Next, I set up my kitchen countertop (flattest table I had) to make a tower.
+
+
+
+To stick pins into and provide a backboard, I used some foam poster board I had from awhile back. It wasn’t particularly flat, so I used some weights to hold it flat while I taped it to the table. For glue, I used the gel Gorilla Glue superglue because it’s thicker and fast drying. There’s specialized superglues out there but I didn’t bother. For its sharpness, I used an X-ACTO knife.
+
+{% include gallery %}
+
+The gist of tower construction, for this relatively simple design at least, is to build two sides then stand them upright and connect them. To make each side, I started by cutting a 1/8″ stick to length and pinning it down, careful not to damage the wood in the process. Then I laid down the cross bracing in one direction first, and then in the other direction to complete the X’s.
+
+{% include gallery id="gallery2" %}
+
+After making the sides, I stood them upright and pinned them down. That’s when I realized a crucial error in how I did the cross bracing. Since I laid the crosses in one direction first instead of a zigzag, this resulted in a slight twist in the two sides. To fix this I used some weights to push the sides into proper alignment. Then I placed the cross bracings connecting the two sides in the opposite direction to counteract twist. I also used extra 1/8″ sticks to hold the sides in place while I did the cross bracing. Another issue I had was running out of 1/16″ sticks for cross bracing and also the tower being too heavy, so I hand sanded some 1/8″ sticks down to ~1/32″ to do the remaining cross bracing.
+
+{% include gallery id="gallery3" %}
+
+After finishing the cross bracing, I ran into another issue. I forgot to account for the slope of the tower when designing it, resulting in a slightly short tower. Using some scraps, I added a few mm to the top of the tower to get to the 50cm requirement. I also sanded the bottom and top to get it perfectly level.
+
+## Testing
+
+After letting the tower sit in my living room for two weeks because I built it too early, I finally tested the tower.
+
+{% include video id="WtvV5FuKvx4" provider="youtube" %}
+
+It performed rather admirably despite it literally being the first wooden tower I’d ever built. It was also the only wooden tower I’d ever built. Still it held just shy of 15kg before breaking – it broke a second after I placed the last 0.5kg weight – and had a mass of 8.4g, giving it an efficiency of 1720. If I remember correctly, my tower was 5th out of my entire class and the students who actually wanted to compete for the SciOly towers event.
diff --git a/_posts/2016-11-18-electric-vehicle-2017.md b/_posts/2016-11-18-electric-vehicle-2017.md
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+---
+title: Electric Vehicle 2017
+date: 2016-11-18
+categories: projects school scioly
+excerpt: My attempt at an Electric Vehicle for the SciOly 2017 season which, due to a few key mistakes, did fail.
+header:
+ teaser: /assets/img/2016/ev2017.jpg
+---
+
+Written 9-27-19
+
+Coming into the SciOly 2017 season, the biggest change made to Electric Vehicle was that the car now had to travel on a curved path through some cans. Based on some rough calculations, I decided to use last year’s vehicle. I proceeded to make various modifications to bring it in line with accomplishing this year’s goals, starting with lots of 3D printed parts.
+
+Keeping in line with my desire to make the user experience with the vehicle as simple as possible, I kept the laser sighting system. To aim it, I would just aim to the right of the cans to account for the curvature of the path. After a lot of test trials, I was able to get the vehicle relatively accurate.
+
+
+
+At tryouts, the vehicle failed spectacularly. The one thing I failed to account for was the quality of the surface. The floors in our science building were notoriously dirty, which drastically reduced the coefficient of friction. This led to the steering not working at all and the vehicle headed straight into a wall. For reference, I had calibrated my vehicle for a clean hardwood gym floor like what we usually see at competition. This is a prime example of when optimizing for competition instead of just getting past tryouts really didn’t work.
+
+Later in the year I had this idea of building a drone that could identify and fly through the cans and to the target point. Sadly, no one seems to answer the rule clarifications I submit, so the idea never came to fruition. Anyways, I had more than enough things to worry about that year.
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